How To Cover Gray and Eliminate brassy hair

Most hair is prone to becoming “brassy” or orange/copper when artificial hair colors fade. This is because all oxidative dyes (both permanent, and demi-permanent colors alike) remove or “lift out” some of the natural pigments from the cortex of the hair in the process of depositing artificial color there. This is especially problematic for folks who are trying to blend or cover grey hair to match a natural color.

The root cause of excessive warmth in artificially dyed hair comes from the hair’s underlying pigment or undertone (see illustration). All permanent and demi-permanent hair coloring products on the market that combine an artificial dye with a developer (hydrogen preoxide) utilize a chemical reaction to drive small color molecules under the cuticle of the hair and deep into the cortex (center shaft) of the hair where the dyes swell and “stick” during the “processing” time. The faster the coloring process, the more unstable the dye color results and the more likely the color will change and fade over time. During the oxidative dying process, natural melanin pigments are removed from the hair and replaced with artificial pigments. This increases the hair’s porosity and makes the hair prone to color fading over time - revealing the hair’s warm or “brassy” undertone. The darker the hair the more orange/red the undertone. Fine hair is especially prone to becoming brassy after artificial hair coloring.

For folks who experience a lot of undesirable warmth or “brassiness” from artificial color (but don’t have a lot of white/grey hair), I recommend trying my Artisanal Herbal Hair Color: a natural plant dye that preserves all the natural pigments in your hair, effectively blends grey hair with natural hair colors, strengthens and seals the hair’s cuticle, and preserves the hair’s natural dimension, color variation and reflection. I have created a bespoke range of non-oxidative, herbal hair colors that are designed to stain and seal the cuticle of the hair, providing natural color protection and a permanent color change to silver and white hair.

Herbal hair color is the ultimate way to take care of hair naturally, using the healing and protective properties of nature. The more often it is applied, the healthier the hair becomes. It doesn’t go “brassy” and provides optimum grey blending and conditioning benefits to hair.

The Safest Hair Color To Use During A Pandemic

During the first few weeks of sheltering-in-place, I spent a good amount of time thinking through how to bring truly natural and organic hair color to my clients. I started by providing a small group of clients with 100% natural, herbal hair color kits for home use. The results were fantastic. Three months later, I believe that professionally applied, herbal hair dye may be the safest and healthiest hair color option for anyone staying home or going back to the salon for hair color after the shelter-in-place orders are lifted.

The plant dyes I use (henna, cassia, indigo and amla) do not come in a box. They are ethically sourced, pure, unadulterated, organic plant leaf powders that I custom blend to create bespoke natural hair color that is professionally applied to your hair in about an hour. Because I offer an "application only" service, it will dramatically reduce your time in the salon and eliminate face-to-face time at the shampoo bowl. For these reasons alone, this service may be the safest hair color option available when the Covid-19 SIP orders are lifted. In addition to being safer from a social contact perspective, 100% herbal hair dye is free of toxins, out performs chemical color, and is restorative rather than damaging for fine and textured hair. If you want natural looking and completely non-toxic hair color, I recommend giving herbal dye a try.

Have questions? Want to learn more? Schedule a consultation to see if herbal hair dye is a good option for you.

All Hair Problems Have Solutions

All hair problems have solutions. Sometimes the solution is internal and sometimes it’s external. Often, the solution includes the elimination of certain ingredients, or changing your hair care routine entirely. If you suffer from itchy, flaky scalp, I can help you analyze and understand how your hair care routine and home care products may be contributing to ongoing hair and scalp issues.

Book an Organic Hair & Scalp Rejuvenation Treatment to give your hair and scalp a fresh start and get some personalized recommendations for home care routines and products designed keep your hair and scalp healthy and vibrant between salon visits.

When Should I Use An Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse?

Hair can become limp, dull, and heavy due to buildup of residues from shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling products. An Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Hair Rinse can help remove some of the buildup when used after shampooing. An apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse can also help detangle hair, reduce frizz, restore body and shine, stimulate and sooth the scalp, reduce hair and scalp buildup, unclog hair follicles, decrease dandruff, and reduce excess shedding. An ACV rinse is especially helpful for people who are new to using shampoo bars.

How do I know if I need to use an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse?

Whether or not you need to use an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse depends on many factors.

• Your water: If your hair does not seem to be adjusting to the shampoo bars, it may be due to your water. Hard water makes it more difficult to rinse natural shampoo from your hair, and San Francisco has hard water. An ACV rinse will help to balance out hard water and provide slip to the hair to make your final rinse more effective.

• Hair length: Some men and women with short hair have found that they do not need to rinse with vinegar, simply because their hair is short and easier to rinse.

• Tangles: ACV rinses help to close down the hair cuticle and therefore help reduce hair tangles.

• Residue & Buildup: If your hair has residue buildup from products, shampoo, or conditioner, spot cleaning your hair with a small amount of baking soda mixed into your shampoo will remove unwanted buildup. It’s important to follow this clarifying treatment with an ACV rinse to restore a slightly acidic pH to hair and scalp.

Below you will find a simple ACV recipe and Instructions for getting started with this at home. If you are reluctant to try this at home, just ask me for a demo at your next appointment and I’ll be happy to walk you through all the steps. I also have an ACV concentrates for sale in the salon or can create a custom blend just for you with pure, medicinal grade essential oils. Click here if you would like to order from me instead of making your own.

ACV & Essential Oil Concentrate Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 cup raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar

• 1 glass bottle

• 5 to 10 drops of skin safe essential oils of your choice.

Directions

1. Add essential oils of your choice to vinegar. Store mixture in a glass bottle.

2. The mixture can be used right away or allowed to sit for a couple of days to steep.

3. When ready to make your hair rinse, shake the Essential Oil & ACV Concentrate and then dilute 1 to 2 tablespoon of your concentrate with 1 cup of water in a plastic squeeze bottle.

4. Apply dilution to wet hair after rinsing out your shampoo. Manipulate hair for 1-2 minutes with ACV rinse.

5. Rinse hair with fresh, cool water.

6. At this point, you may choose whether or not to use a conditioner based on how your hair feels.

What is the best way to apply my ACV rinse?

While you can use any container to mix up your ACV Dilution, I prefer to use a plastic squirt top bottle. Pouring a cold rinse on your hair is invigorating, but if you prefer a warmer rinse, make it right before you step in the shower using warm tap water.

How Often Can I Use The Vinegar Hair Rinse?

Since everyone's hair is unique you should use your own judgment as you experiment with ACV rinses. You will need to find a dilution and a frequency that works best for your hair type. Remember: dry hair likes less vinegar and oily hair likes more. Start with 1 or 2 rinses per week and adjust from there.

Do I need to refrigerate my ACV concentrate?

No, you do not need to refrigerate an ACV concentrate.

*A Note About Essential Oils

There are many wonderful essential oils for hair, but please proceed with caution when using them. Essential oils are strong concentrates and may cause skin irritation if not used correctly. Lavender is one of the few essential oils that can be used directly on the skin. Since some essential oils are stronger than others, it’s important to be be knowledgeable about the amount of essential oils that you add to your ACV concentrate. High quality essential oils are expensive, so start with a few that feel right for you.